From historic hotels to baroque B&Bs, seaside campsites and magnificent rural hideaways, Puglia’s accommodation caters to all tastes and budgets. Alternative options come in the form of tree-houses, castles and the Itria Valley’s trulli. So whether you want to lie back on the coast, luxuriate in the country, or live it up in the city, there’s an option out there for you.
For an experience unique to the Itria Valley, book a room in a trullo. These centuries-old houses with their conical drystone roofs were designed to deal with Puglia’s torrid summers and biting winters so while you won’t find air con, their thick walls ensure a cool night’s sleep in summer and a cosy sojourn in winter. Many have been resurrected as B&Bs or holiday rentals. UNESCO-listed Alberobello is Puglia’s trulli capital but you’ll find plenty of others dotted around the Itria Valley. Also in the valley, in Locorotondo, you can bed down in a cummerse, a white house with a steep, slanted roof.
Puglia’s masserie started life as farm estates, their stone buildings designed to house labourers and animals. Nowadays, many offer atmospheric holiday accommodation in the form of luxurious five-star resorts, rustic agriturismi (farmstays) or self-catering apartments. They’re a great choice if you want to experience a slice of traditional Pugliese life and indulge in authentic local food ‒ some even offer cooking classes and wine and olive oil tastings. Masserie are spread across the region but hotspots include Savelletri near Fasano and the Itria Valley.
Lecce is Puglia’s classic baroque city and many of its city-centre hotels and B&Bs are housed in handsome, baroque palazzos. You’ll also find some wonderful baroque accommodation in Nardò and other Salento towns. To the north, Martina Franca is another town whose baroque centre offers atmospheric accommodation, mainly in B&Bs and apartment rentals.
To experience the full Puglia effect, there’s nothing like staying in one of its historic centres. These are generally the most beautiful part of any town or city, typically threaded through with narrow lanes, piazzas, churches and aristocratic palazzos. In Bari, for example, you can stay in Bari Vecchia, the historic heart of the city and epicentre of its modern bar scene. But wherever you go in the region, from Vieste to Gallipoli, it pays to check out the centro storico.
A recent trend in Puglia’s accommodation scene has seen the arrival of alberghi diffusi (literally ‘scattered hotels’). These are hotels with rooms spread over several sites in a town or village, usually in old buildings that have been specially restored for the purpose. They provide an excellent way of staying in traditional style while contributing to the upkeep of the local area. So whether you want to stay in a suite in a historic palazzo or an apartment by the sea, they’re well worth considering. You’ll find them across the region, from Troia and Peschici in the north to Altamura and Monopoli further south.
For an unforgettable experience, head north to the Daunian Mountains. Here, near the lovely village of Biccari, dubbed Puglia’s ‘Little Switzerland’, you can overnight in a tree house. These treetop lodges, which can accommodate families of up to four, promise a beautiful setting – in uncontaminated woods near Lake Pescara – and total tranquility. You really are off the beaten path here. But if a tree house is too mainstream for you, push the boat out even further and book a night in Biccari’s bubble – a round, tent-like structure that offers sublime night-sky views.
Wine buffs are well catered to in Puglia. As well as one or two wine resorts offering smart, country-chic accommodation on their country estates, many top-end masserie can arrange winery visits, tastings and courses run by local sommeliers.
Some of Puglia’s best deals are to be had in the region’s agriturismi (farmstays). These provide accommodation in traditional farmsteads and are often well-suited to families travelling with kids, with swimming pools and play areas. Some also have farm animals that the kids can pet, and organise fun, family-friendly activities. Others are more sophisticated, resembling upmarket rural resorts with facilities to match. As a rule, agriturismi serve excellent farmhouse food.
Puglia boasts a whole host of seasonal campsites offering bargain accommodation and brilliant seaside locations. Most are large self-contained complexes with pitches for tents and mobile-home style bungalows, as well as pools, pizzerias and shops. They get very busy in high summer when many impose minimum-stay requirements. At the other end of the spectrum, the region has some fantastic beach resorts. Much frequented by Italian holidaymakers in the summer, these are often well-suited to families with child-friendly facilities and full-board packages available.
History has left Puglia’s landscape dotted with medieval castles, convents and monasteries. Many are open to the public but some are in private hands and offer hotel or B&B-style accommodation. Comfort levels vary but what makes these places so special is the sense of history that pervades them and the original touches you’ll find in their rooms and hallways – wood-beamed ceilings, original fireplaces, frescoes dating back hundreds of years.
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