Backed by sand dunes and typical Mediterranean shrubland, the coastal lakes of Varano and Lesina are a natural paradise. In winter thousands of birds flock to the lakes, the largest in southern Italy, providing fabulous birdwatching opportunities. For information about this and the other activities on offer at the Lake of Varano – hiking, cycling, kayaking – stop by the Museum of the Lagoon Territory and Culture at Cagnano Varano. At the Lake of Lesina, you can learn about the area’s traditional way of life at the Gargano National Park Visitor Centre, and try some of the lake’s famous eels (anguille). These have been fished for centuries and still today are a mainstay of the local cuisine.
Situated at the northern end of the Tavoliere plain, San Severo was for centuries an important provincial capital. Its rich history has left a mark in the form of a maze-like centre and several noteworthy buildings. Chief among these is the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, which was originally built in the late Middle Ages but now sports a largely baroque look. Wine buffs might also enjoy tasting the local vino and visiting the underground cellars used by winemakers.
Visible from miles around, Lucera’s signature castle is a formidable sight with its 900 m of walls and 22 towers. It was originally built by Frederick II in 1233 but owes much of its current form to Charles II of Anjou who reinforced it and added the impregnable stone ring. The castle is just one of a number of historical landmarks left by Lucera’s rulers. The remains of a Roman amphitheatre testify to the town’s ancient past while its 14th-century cathedral stands on the site of a mosque from the time when Lucera had a sizeable Muslim Saracen population.
Less known than Manduria’s Primitivo or the Negroamaro from the Salento, the Nero di Troia is one of Puglia’s most important wines. An intense ruby red, almost black in colour, it’s a robust full-bodied wine that pairs well with lamb and grilled meats or with the iconic taralli (pretzel-like snacks) that are produced daily in the area’s traditional bakeries.
Surrounded by wheat fields and vineyards at the foot of the Daunian Mountains, the sleepy village of Troia showcases one of northern Puglia’s great architectural gems. The Concattedrale, built between 1098 and 1120, is a masterpiece of Puglian-Romanesque styling, incorporating Arab-inflected Byzantine touches and Pisan-Romanesque influences. Particularly outstanding are its ornamental bronze doors and the extraordinary rose window. For more earthly pursuits, Troia is on the Via Francigena del Sud pilgrimage trail, which offers great hiking as it leads on to Monte Sant’Angelo, about 100 km away.
About 15 km south of Troia, the tranquil village of Orsara di Puglia sits in woodland in the heart of an area once known as the Capitanata. Its main monument is the Abbey of Sant’Angelo which was used in medieval times as a stopover for pilgrims on the road to Monte Sant’Angelo. The complex boasts two churches and an austere grotto – the Grotta di San Michele – dating to around 1100. Foodies will also enjoy stocking up on goodies from Orsara’s traditional bakers’, one of which has been producing bread since the 16th century.
One of Puglia’s most fascinating medieval borghi, Bovino is a classic hillside village, its grey stone houses cascading down the slopes in a helter-skelter of cobblestone alleyways, staircases, white houses and up to 800 stone portals. Capping everything is the village castle. Built over a Roman fort in 1045 and subsequently enlarged by Frederick II, this served as the residence of the aristocratic Guevara family and its heirs until 1961. Nowadays, it houses a small museum displaying religious objects and artworks from the 15th to 17th centuries. Also worth checking out is the village’s Puglian-Romanesque cathedral. To crown the day off, make a quick detour to hilltop Deliceto to admire its wonderfully-preserved Norman-Swabian castle. The severe, geometric form of this landmark structure has dominated the village’s steeply-stacked centre for centuries, housing a long line of Norman, Swabian, Angevin and Aragon nobility throughout the ages. Castle apart, the village is also known for its annual costumed procession, held every 14 August, which re-enacts the investiture of the first Marquis of Piccolomini in 1463. In the Christmas period, Deliceto’s presepe vivente (Living Nativity Scene) is another popular event, drawing visitors from the surrounding area.
Now a tranquil hilltop village, Ascoli Satriano has witnessed its fair share of bloodshed and in the distant past it was the site of two major battles: in 279 BCE, Pyrrhus defeated the Romans here, and in 1041 the Normans successfully fought the Byzantines to take control of the surrounding territory. To learn more about its tumultuous past, stop by the excellent museum complex which has a collection of ancient finds, some dating to the 4th century BCE. The final leg of the drive leads up to Foggia, the northernmost of Puglia’s six provincial capitals.
The city’s roots date to ancient times and it flourished under Frederick II in the 1200s but history has been hard on it and over the centuries earthquakes and heavy World War II bombing have destroyed much of the historic city. It does, however, retain a few worthy sights. These include its cathedral, a hybrid of Romanesque and baroque styles, and the Civic Museum whose collection of artworks and archaeological artefacts charts the history and identity of the city and surrounding area.
To finish your tour on a high, treat yourself to a day on the Tremiti Islands. The off-shore charms of this Adriatic archipelago might seem a world away from Foggia but thanks to a regular helicopter service you can be in San Domino in 20 minutes. Surprisingly, the flights, operated by Alidaunia (www.alidaunia.it), don’t cost the earth, and they provide a memorable, time-saving way to fit some beach time into your tour. San Domino is the largest and busiest of the islands, offering superlative swimming and an array of water sports. Neighbouring San Nicola has long been the archipelago’s historic heart and here you can explore a series of fortifications and an 11th-century abbey.
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