Puglia’s waters offer superlative diving. In the Salento, you can swim in search of underwater caves and relics in the Baia dell’Orte near Otranto, and in the inviting waters off Castro, Santa Maria di Leuca and Porto Cesareo. To the north, the Gargano is another prime spot, particularly between Mattinata and Peschici. For some of the best diving in the Mediterranean, head to the Tremiti Islands where there are more than 50 recognised dive sites, including several around the Island of Capraia. Take to the depths here and you’ll discover a submarine bronze statue of San Pio, venerated worldwide, and a spectacular underwater world around Punta Secca.
Snorkelling goes hand in hand with sightseeing at the Archaeological Park of Egnazia. Here you can swim over the underwater remains of what was once the Roman port of Gnathia. Elsewhere in the region, guided swims provide a thrilling way of learning about the marine flora and fauna that thrives in the waters of the Protected Marine Area of Torre Guaceto. Over on the Ionian coast, there’s great snorkelling at Marine Area of Porto Cesareo where the seabeds are rich in underwater life – if you’re really lucky you might even spot a loggerhead turtle.
Surfers, windsurfers and kitesurfers should make a beeline for Vieste where locals take to the waves at the Spiaggia Lunga. The waters here are suitable for all levels, including beginners. More expert surfers can also try their moves in the Baia di Manaccora, towards Peschici. To the south, thrill seekers can hit the surf at Torre Canne, Apani in the Protected Marine Area of Torre Guaceto, and Frassanito near Alimini.
Sailors are spoiled for choice in Puglia. If you want to go it alone, you’ll have no trouble finding a boat to hire. Good spots for maritime exploration include the Gargano coast and the eastern Salento. Here you can pick up a boat in Castro or Santa Maria di Leuca and head out to explore the caves and grottoes that pockmark the rocky coastline. However, if you’re looking to learn the ropes, there are plenty of sailing schools offering courses for all levels. Good places include the Protected Marine Area of Torre Guaceto and Santa Maria di Leuca where you can sail in two seas (the Adriatic and Ionian). Another Ionian spot worth checking out is the Spiaggia di Torre Chianca at Porto Cesareo.
One of the best ways of investigating the caves and rocky inlets of the Gargano’s plunging coastline is by canoe. During the summer, you’ll find numerous outfits hiring out canoes and kayaks on the beaches between Vieste and Peschici. For a less strenuous workout, head south to the limpid waters of the Alimini Lakes which lend themselves to slow-exploration by kayak. You can easily hire canoes on site or sign up for an organised paddle.
For a fishing experience unique to Puglia, join a crew on one of the trabucchi (traditional fishing platforms) that line the Gargano coast. During the course of the day you’ll work side by side with the experts to drop your nets and haul up the day’s catch. More traditional fishing trips can be organised on boats sailing out of Vieste and Trani. For some lake fishing, make for the Lake of Varano where you can learn about the traditional techniques used to catch the lake’s prized eels.
A remaining vestige of the swamplands that once covered much of the Adriatic coast, Le Cesine Nature Reserve extends for 348 hectares near San Cataldo. Access to the area is strictly limited, so you’ll need to book a visit through the WWF (www.riservalecesine.it). Walking and cycling tours are ideal for exploring the pine and holm oak woods, Mediterranean shrubland and reed banks that cover much of the reserve. To the north, the Torre Guaceto Protected Marine Area is another pocket of pristine coastline, boasting kilometres of soaring sand dunes and several fabulous beaches.
Surrounded by sand dunes and typical Mediterranean shrubland, the lakes of Lesina and Varano are ideal for outdoor enthusiasts. There’s easy-going hiking and cycling or you can hire a canoe and take to the lagoons’ placid waters. The lakes provide an important wildlife habitat, particularly in winter when flocks of migrating birds swoop in. It’s a spectacle much appreciated by local birdwatchers. The lakes are also renowned for their eels which are a mainstay of the local diet. To learn more about the local fauna, stop by the Gargano National Park Visitor Centre in Lesina.
Taranto’s Mar Piccolo (Small Sea) is best known for its delicious mussels (cozze), but there’s more to it than its mollusks. To learn about its extraordinary bio-diversity, the Ecomuseo Palude La Vela e Mar Piccolo is an open-air museum that’s spread over several sites and runs guided tours. For an incredible look at the local marine wildlife, book a berth on one of the dolphin-watching cruises in the Gulf of Taranto that ply the city’s fertile waters. Run by an association of local conservationists, these are hugely popular so it pays to reserve in advance.
Much frequented by day trippers from Taranto, the beaches that sprawl along the coastline east of the city are backed by an extensive system of sand dunes. Protected as part of the regional Litorale Tarantino Orientale Nature Reserve, these are best seen on the coast at Campomarino di Maruggio where the white, sandy hillocks tufted with sea juniper and aromatic wild thyme give on to beautiful, Caribbean-like beaches.
Puglia’s coast is at its most spectacular in the Gargano. Here sea caves and hidden coves sit at the foot of blinding white cliffs as they plunge into the deep emerald-green waters of the Adriatic. Especially beautiful is the stretch between Vieste and Peschici. As you revel in the gorgeous scenery, note the free-standing rock stacks that rise out of the water. These are a real feature of the Gargano and many have nicknames. The most famous, a 25m-high stack towering over the beach at Vieste, is known as Pizzomunno. Two other well-known landmarks include the Arco di Diomede and Le Forbici (The Scissors) at the Baia delle Zagare.
Snaking down the Salento’s east coast to Santa Maria di Leuca, this road provides some of Puglia’s most exhilarating driving. The ancient landscape is as gripping as it is harsh with its bare, wind-swept grasslands, giant prickly pears and scorched rocks baking in the unforgiving sun. Off to your left, cliffs plummet into the sparkling blue sea. The scenery is the highlight but as you wind ever southwards, take time for refreshing swims at Porto Badisco and Castro.
For a break from the blues and blinding whites of the Otranto coast, venture inland for a kilometre or so to the Cava di Bauxite. This former bauxite quarry is home to a small lake of mossy-green water, scenically surrounded by reed beds and walls of rusty-red rock. The surrounding ground is also a striking ferrous red, providing wonderful photo opps and relaxed walking.
A cruise around the Island of San Domino is the best way of getting up close to its dreamy coves. You’ll have no trouble finding a berth at the port where boats depart regularly during the summer season. Tour highlights include the Grotta del Bue Marino, a sea cave named after the monk seals and sea lions that once frequented it, and the Scoglio dell’Elefante, a rock formation shaped like an elephant.
Pitted with spectacular marine grottoes, the coastline between Mattinata and Peschici is a favourite with boat trippers. Cruises depart from Mattinata, Vieste and Peschici and are hugely popular, stopping to take in the colourfully-named grottoes and hidden beaches, some of which can only be accessed by sea.
Sipping a seaboard aperitif as you watch the sun set over Monopoli is an experience you won’t forget in a hurry. Several outfits offer sunset cruises along the coast between Monopoli and Polignano a Mare allowing you to enjoy the sea in the soft golden light of dusk.
It’s only by taking to the sea that you’ll discover how many caves honeycomb the cliffs around Polignano a Mare. Grottoes like the Grotta delle Rondinelle, where local daredevils dive off a 6m-high natural vault into the sea, and the Grotta della Chiangella, named after the cries of mothers whose children were abducted by Saracen raiders.
The largest, busiest and most spectacular of the sea caves around Castro, the Grotta Zinzulusa features on the boat tours that ply the Salento’s eastern waters from Castro Marina and Santa Maria di Leuca. Cruises take in the cave and other grottoes as well as Porto Miggiano, a beautiful inlet with crystalline waters. For a foodie slant to your tour, many operators offer Salento delicacies as part of their package.
With its blue fishing skiffs and picturesque harbour, tiny Tricase Porto is an ideal place to learn about the Salento’s fishing traditions. The pocket-size marina forms part of the Porto Museo di Tricase, an open-air museum spread across several village sites that illustrates the area’s fishing way of life. Once you’ve finished at the museum, head to the nearby Marina Serra for a swim in its amazing rock pool.
Quiet for much of the year, Gallipoli explodes into life in the summer when crowds of holidaymakers descend on its Ionian beaches. The town, which dates to the time of Magna Graecia, is renowned for its animated nightlife which creates a real festive air in the peak months of July and August. Partying apart, you can top up your tan on the popular Spiaggia della Purità or at the nearby Baia Verde. The old port area is also worth checking out, as is the historic centre.
Little known to foreign visitors but much appreciated by the Pugliese, Giovinazzo is a charming seafront town. It’s particularly popular with young crowds from Bari who flock here on warm summer nights to hang out around the picturesque port and medieval centre. Down by the seafront, the town’s handsome cathedral merits a look before you select your evening’s bar or restaurant.
Molfetta’s historic port is an uplifting sight with its bobbing fishing boats, palm trees and Romanesque cathedral. Attractive any time of the day, it’s especially lovely in the evening when the sun sets and the limestone walls and stone buildings take on a soft, orange glow. The scene, once described by the poet Lord Byron, is one that will remain with you long after you’ve returned home.
Revel in the beauty of Puglia’s two seas on this dash down the heel. Start on the Adriatic, discovering the various beaches of the Gargano. Favourites include the Spiaggia di Vignanotica, a cliff-backed beach with lovely green-hued waters, and the Baia delle Zagare, overlooked by two landmark rock stacks. Continuing down the coast, you can stop for a splash at Lama Monachile in Polignano a Mare and in the cooler waters of Porto Ghiacciolo at nearby Monopoli. Further south, crystalline blue waters await in the Protected Marine Area of Torre Guaceto. From here, head across the heel to the Ionian, where the fabulous white sandy beaches of San Pietro in Bevagna and Punta Prosciutto are quite magnificent. Push on down the coast and you come to Gallipoli, a hip summer hangout within easy striking distance of some of the Salento’s best beaches. Chief among these are Punta della Suina, known as the ‘Ionian Caribbean’, and Torre del Pizzo. To finish on a real high, double back to the east coast and Porto Badisco. You’ll have a great time here diving off the rocks into its transparent topaz waters and eating delicious sea urchins.
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