An important gateway to the east since Roman times, Brindisi has long been passed over as little more than a transport hub. However, there’s more to the city than its ferry port and it rewards some exploration. Highlights include the 12th-century Temple of San Giovanni al Sepolcro and the Provincial Archaeological Museum, showcasing a comprehensive collection of locally-found artefacts. Nearby, a Roman column marks the end of Via Appia, the ancient Appian Way.
Celebrated for its baroque beauty, Lecce is known as the ‘Florence of the South’. For a whistle-stop tour of its greatest hits start at Piazza del Duomo where you’ll find the city’s much-modified cathedral and 17th-century Palazzo Vescovile (Bishop’s Palace). A short walk away, the remains of a Roman amphitheatre provide the centerpiece for Lecce’s principal square, Piazza Sant’Oronzo. Continue on to the Basilica of Santa Croce and Church of Santi Niccolò e Cataldo for a blast of barocco leccese architecture.
The flamboyant architectural style known as barocco leccese (Lecce baroque) burst on the scene at the end of the 16th century, first in Lecce, then in the surrounding province. Characterised by floral motifs, mythical figures, friezes and heraldic coats of arms, it was based on the use of pietra leccese, a local stone which is soft and malleable when extracted but hardens over time to take on a warm golden hue. Big-name architects associated with the style include Giuseppe Cino, Francesco Antonio Zimbalo and Giuseppe Zimbalo.
About 20 km south of Lecce, Galatina marks the Salento’s geographic centre. It has a charming historic centre but the real reason to stop is to visit the Basilica of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, a beautiful 14th-century church whose interior is emblazoned with magnificent Gothic frescoes. On the Adriatic coast east of Galatina, Otranto is a hugely popular holiday hangout.
If you can drag yourself away from its glorious beaches, it boasts a lovely historic centre and a beautiful Norman cathedral floored by a stunning 12th-century mosaic. A short hop away, its mighty Aragonese castle has guarded the town since the 15th century. Before leaving town, make sure to check out the Cava di Bauxite, a former bauxite quarry with a small, scenic lake.
On day four, the road leads south along the Salento’s rugged Adriatic coast. First stop is Punta Palascia, or Capo d’Otranto as it’s more commonly known. Marked by a solitary lighthouse, this is Italy’s most easterly point, a picturesque spot that enjoys geographic fame as the point where the Adriatic officially finishes and the Ionian Sea begins. On clear days you can see the mountains of Albania on the horizon, some 70 km away. A short hop to the south, Porto Badisco offers some of the coast’s finest swimming. Low-lying rocks surround the sheltered cove, providing a wonderful natural platform for diving into the idyllic turquoise waters. As well as glorious swimming, the cove also specialises in delicious sea urchins (ricci di mare), served simply with spaghetti at the basic local trattorias. Continuing down the coast and you come to the old-fashioned spa town of Santa Cesarea Terme. Perched on a rocky bluff, it was frequented by the local nobility in the 19th century and still today it features a number of stately villas, some with Moorish-inspired architecture. For a splash in thermal waters make a beeline for the Terme di Santa Cesarea, or grab a sun-lounger at the Piscina Sulfurea.
Beyond Santa Cesarea lies the small town of Castro, dominated by a forbidding Aragonese castle and 12th-century Romanesque church. Downhill, its marina serves as a popular hub for the rocky coastline and its many sea caves. The best known of these is the Grotta Zinzulusa , an echoing complex named after its bizarre rock formations, many resembling limp rags (zinzuli in the local Salentine dialect). From Castro, it’s a further 45-minute drive to the tip of the heel and Santa Maria di Leuca, known to the Romans as de finibus terrae (at the end of the earth). Overlooking the town, which is today a summer holiday resort, is the Basilica Sanctuary of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae, an important pilgrimage site built over an earlier Roman temple. Once you’ve seen this, the main activity in these parts is taking a boat cruise to the nearby sea grottoes.
The next leg takes you on a quick detour inland to the heart of the Salento’s scorched hinterland. Here, set amid olive groves, Casarano is home to one of the oldest sites in Christendom. The Church of Santa Maria della Croce was built between the fifth and sixth centuries and features a series of fantastic early Christian mosaics, as well as Byzantine and Gothic frescoes. Sated on art, the sea beckons. On the Ionian coast, Gallipoli, the modern vestige of Kallipolis, the ancient Greeks’ ‘beautiful city’, is one of the Salento’s top summer destinations. It’s especially popular with hip, young holidaymakers who crowd here to party on its lively beaches. Away from the seafront, interest is largely focused on the slightly faded historic centre, which balloons out to the east of the Porto Antico. Highlights include the 13th-century castle and the art-filled Church of Santa Maria della Purità.
As you push northwards from Gallipoli, take time for a break at the Porto Selvaggio Regional Natural Park. A pocket of 300 hectares of pine woods and 7 km of uncontaminated, rocky coastline, it offers superlative swimming and tranquil walking. Paths meander through the area, some leading to the Grotta del Cavallo, a natural cave where Neolithic finds have been unearthed. For more seaside fun, the popular resort of Porto Cesareo can lay claim to some of Puglia’s finest beaches.
Strips of soft white sand backed by dunes and historic watch towers sprawl lazily along the coast, some 32 km of which falls within the Porto Cesareo Marine Protected Area. Beach lovers are spoiled for choice but outstanding spots include the Spiaggia delle Dune at Torre Chianca and, further up, the Caribbean-like Punta Prosciutto.
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